Sunday, July 5, 2009

Vegetarianism Dons Its Little Black Dress and Hits the Town

To try and get a better sense of the food fair’s history, last week I dragged out the lawn chair, made myself a fruity drink, and spent the afternoon pouring over a stack of Lifelines – TVA’s subscription newsletter – ranging over the last 25 years.

The topics covered in the articles haven’t changed much; the newsletter still explores the health and environmental benefits of a plant-based diet, consequences of the factory farming industry, what it means to eat compassionately, as well as abundant culinary – and social! – tips on making the transition. The newsletter itself, though, has changed significantly. In the early 90’s, it contained hand-drawn photocopied flyers for bake sales. A decade later, a sleeker package presents cutting edge articles from an array of experts.

Some of this, of course, is simply that the design has evolved as the publication has matured and become more financially sustainable. But it also mirrors a change in vegetarianism: it is no longer a grassroots domain. Nor is it necessarily dominated by counter-culture animal activists anymore. The proponents of vegetarianism today are as diverse as their reasons. But one thing is certain – it’s way sexier than it used to be. Tofu and broccoli recipes have given way to pan-seared seitan in a portabello red wine reduction, and vegan chocolate-strawberry layer cakes. Celebrities are lining up to get naked for PETA ads. More and more urbanites are looking for a vegetarian meal – even those who are not vegetarians – and a lot of Toronto restaurants are stepping up to the plate.

So who’s responsible for the new veg-chic? Food fair stats from the last few years show that a quarter of the attendees are under age 25, and over half are between 15-34 – some 8,100 people based on recent attendance estimates. That’s a heck of a lot of hipsters. And it certainly isn’t only vegetarians that attend – in fact only half of the people surveyed at the fair claim to be vegetarians, and another impressive 50% are first-timers, a good sign that the word is, as they say, on the street. It’s true, 25 is a good age.

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